Milan Fashion Week S/S 2026: Tradition Meets Transformation

This season, Milan Fashion Week feels like more than just a series of runway shows — it feels like a turning point.

The city is alive with new beginnings, heartfelt farewells, and an energy that underscores why Milan remains a cornerstone of the global fashion calendar. From Demna’s understated Gucci introduction to Louise Trotter’s anticipated debut at Bottega Veneta, Spring/Summer 2026 is shaping into a landmark season.

It all kicked off on 23 September, when Demna unveiled The Tiger, a short film by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, in place of a runway at Gucci — a glimpse into his disruptive approach. The following day, Simone Bellotti took the stage at Jil Sander, opening a new chapter after Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade-long run. Later came Dario Vitale’s daring debut at Versace, while last night, Louise Trotter presented her vision for Bottega Veneta, adding another female voice to a year marked by sweeping changes at major houses.

This Fashion Week is equally about honoring the past and embracing the future. With new creative talent stepping into historic maisons and the city preparing to celebrate Giorgio Armani’s extraordinary legacy, S/S 2026 reinforces Milan’s dual role: guardian of tradition and driver of reinvention.

The week carries both excitement and emotion. Armani, who passed away earlier this month at 91, will be remembered with a tribute show closing the season — a final salute to a career that defined Italian fashion.

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana transformed the Metropol Theatre into a surreal, high-fashion pyjama party. The highlight wasn’t only on the runway but in the front row: the cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley — appeared in character, sparking a frenzy (and even drawing a smile from Anna Wintour).

On the runway, the duo extended their “Pyjama Boys” theme into womenswear: striped sets dripping with crystals, sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie-inspired looks. Shoes alternated between fluffy slippers and towering stilettos. With Meryl-as-Miranda Priestly smirking in approval, the show struck a perfect balance between theatre and DNA.

Versace

Dario Vitale staged his Versace debut at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, reimagined as the aftermath of a wild night — unmade beds, scattered glasses, ashtrays.

His collection echoed that mood: plunging mini dresses hinting at lingerie, oversized tailoring in vivid shades, and baroque prints clashing with chainmail metallics. Rather than quoting the archives, Vitale channeled Gianni’s rebellious essence. “It’s about the feeling of Gianni, not the literal pieces,” he noted backstage. The result: a bold, respectful step forward for the house.

Max Mara

Ian Griffiths drew inspiration from Madame de Pompadour, muse to Louis XV, for a collection titled “Rococo Modern,” blending opulence with modern pragmatism.

Trench coats with flared “corona” sleeves, dresses adorned with organza petals, and brocades softened by sleek tailoring walked the runway. Hair tied back with thick black bands nodded to Pompadour’s style. It was Max Mara distilled: intelligent, wearable, and quietly powerful.

Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi’s second season leading both men’s and womenswear radiated optimism. Set against Marc Newson’s colorful block seating, the collection embraced a “future summer” that was both nostalgic and fresh.

Pleated skirts with toggles, sheer sweatsuits trimmed with shearling, oversized woven totes, and a sequined-lined Peekaboo bag brought playfulness to the runway. The mood was eclectic, fun, yet undeniably luxurious — proof of Fendi’s ability to balance joy with refinement.