Behind the Flair of Jacquemus’ RTW Spring 2023 Show
On Monday, December 12, Jacquemus’ Giant hats, polka dots and reams of raffia added a couture flair to this mega show.
Jacquemus creative director, Simon Porte Jacquemus, returned to Paris to showcase a spring 2023 collection entitled “Le Raphia”. The French designer attracted celebs and influencers to witness the collection, including Pamela Anderson and Sophie Marceau, who attended a typically light-hearted and sunny runway show.
For this Spring 2023 RTW collection, the brand paid tribute to the past and present. The creative director also introduced new pieces taking the brand’s background history into account, “I didn’t want to tell another story about myself. We wanted to reference our own history; the way the Maison would,” Simon Porte said. “The idea of something so summery, and almost making fun of ourselves with the hats too big, we wanted something super elegant.” He added.
The creative director also said he was inspired by “girls you imagine in Portofino and Capri, going around with their hats and earrings and polka-dot pants.”
The collection featured 54 pieces aimed to transport us into Jacquemus’ vision of summer. The lines moved from blues and colour pastels to a cheerier beige, yellows and red. The earthy tones in the ready-to-wear collection are signatures of Jacquemus looks featuring natural colours and textures, his signature oversized hats and tiny bags. In addition to colours, menswear maintained the playful drama as womenswear but remained more gender fluid.
“It’s the end of the summer. All these colours, all the dreams that I saw, that I had, go away. The smell, the beauty, The Raphia rain sweeps everything away as in a dream… Will I see again those big hats, those flower buckets, those prints? I think so.”
There were also baggy jeans washed with metallic silver paint, mini shorts, bathing suits, sheer ensembles with flower appliqués, knitwear, casual T-shirts, shaggy coats, and more.
In accessories, we could see the micro Chiquito bag, oversized raffia sunflower and giant daisy earrings, hay-like hats, and raffia hats. Bird-Esque coats and crop tops that shimmed also took centre stage as models walked. There were also polka dot pedal pushers paired with colossal white collars that felt reminiscent of his early days and an emphasis on denim to bring things back to earth.
Amongst the shoes, the line included clogs and strappy stilettos, while the pointy toes were implanted with a circle and a square on each toe, the brand’s own signature invention.
There was a plethora of celebrities and influencers in attendance for this event, Blackpink singer Jennie, actors Pamela Anderson, Vincent Cassel, Sophie Marceau and reality-TV personality Christine Quinn, who saw the 54 looks walk down the ramp in the raffia rain. Some previously mentioned celebrities wore incredible designs from the current collection, while others from the one Simon Porte showed in June. “You know, often they go more viral than the show,” he said. “It’s different, dressing real people who are not models. I love it. People find them relatable.”
A few other buzzy stars jetted across the pond for the off-calendar show, including Drag Race winner Symone, Richie Shazam and Emma Chamberlain. Throw in two Elite actors (Manu Rios, Arón Piper), and designers (Amina Muaddi, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Daniel Roseberry).
See Jacquemus’ “Le Raphia” collection below.
